Hi all
- jompy
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Re: Hi all
Again if you want to run fully synthetic your probably going to have to change the clutch plates , semi should be more than up to the job
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Re: Hi all
It's currently got Castrol power 1 (not sure if semi or fully) and I've just bought some shell ultra 4t something or other fully synth
Is changing to fully synth known to cause issues? First I've heard of it
Is changing to fully synth known to cause issues? First I've heard of it
- Horus-222_R1
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Re: Hi all
I've been known to make the best of a semi... Sorry lunchtime beer.
If you're gonna go fully synthetic then I vote for 4L Motul 7100 Motorcycle Oil 10w40
2012 & yellow - must be one of those anni's.
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- Moise
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Re: Hi all
The bike will be fine on almost any oil - I think the original spec was API SE. If it's running well and you're happy with it, I'd be tempted to stay with what you are using as there are a couple of possible issues including clutch slip.pompousporcupine wrote:It's currently got Castrol power 1 (not sure if semi or fully) and I've just bought some shell ultra 4t something or other fully synth
Is changing to fully synth known to cause issues? First I've heard of it
Having said that, my 4xv has done a decent mileage and likes a good quality, full synthetic. My favourite is Mobil 1 as the gearbox is quieter and gear changes are smoother.
I reckon if it starts to slip, then you'll find that it needs a new clutch anyway. I did mine in the end even though it wasn't slipping because it didn't feel right and found some warped steel plates with burn marks. All new OE plates with a stronger spring and it feels great.
Another issue can be oil leaks - check for these first as a full synthetic can make them worse. I'd suggest a good look around and under the oil pan.
"You don't get slower with age, you just get more cautious." Michael Rutter
1999 4xv in blue
1999 4xv in blue
- jompy
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Re: Hi all
yes it's a known fact that changing to fully can make your clutch slip , whether this is down to having an already worn clutch as Moise has said or not i don't know but . Also i had the same as moise where my steels were worn and warped , it's deffinately worth costing in a set of steels , i think they're about £7 each .
This may be of help concerning a clutch change
viewtopic.php?f=48&t=10730
This may be of help concerning a clutch change
viewtopic.php?f=48&t=10730
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Re: Hi all
Thanks folks
Something to consider at least. jompy can you remember what oil you put in when it started to slip?
I thought it was the use of friction modifiers that caused the slip which is why i've always just put boggo 10w40 into my bikes. Cheap as you like with no fancy 'we protect for longer' bs.
This is the stuff ive ordered but if its not gonna work then i wont put it in.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shell-Advanc ... 2749.l2649
Something to consider at least. jompy can you remember what oil you put in when it started to slip?
I thought it was the use of friction modifiers that caused the slip which is why i've always just put boggo 10w40 into my bikes. Cheap as you like with no fancy 'we protect for longer' bs.
This is the stuff ive ordered but if its not gonna work then i wont put it in.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shell-Advanc ... 2749.l2649
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Re: Hi all
Now your asking ! I"be had the bike coming up to 10 years
I was using Castrol power1racing and am sure that's what was n it once I had the clutch sorted .
Gets a bit confusing as if I remember I'd gone for fully synthetic and the clutch started slipping , I'm sure it was Castrol power 1 racing . I then replaced the friction plates with EBC plates but the clutch still slipped over 8000rpm and I blamed the plates . I couldn't afford new plates so I stuck with it for a couple of years and did a bit of homework , I found after asking a few people my wife knew from the bike trade that they had used and continued to use EBC plates with no problems so I decided to bite the bullet and buy new O.E.M plates , half plate , steels and diaphragm spring , I did an oil change at the same time using again Castrol power 1 racing and remember as I screwed the oil filter on with my gorilla hands I heard a click , I built everything up and took the bike for a 20mile sling and everything was brilliant
That week I skived off work early on the Wednesday to pop over to Donington to catch up with some of the guys from the forum on a track day , I got no more than 2 miles from home and the engine all of a sudden felt right then I could hear a fast tapping and the thing seezed , which wrote the engine off .
The guy that fitted the new engine put silkolene pro 4 so in it and recommended it shortly a month or so later the wife bought me a Barnett conversion for my birthday and fitted that along with the new clutch from the blown motor .
My conclusion is that putting full synthetic in a bike that has been running semi synthetic can make the clutch slip and that most people when changing an R1 clutch treat it like changing a car clutch and just change the friction plates where as you need to at least check the steels for warping and wear especially if the bikes done a few miles as you don't know when the steels were last changed , also the diaphragm spring is over looked as I believe these go weak over time and to confirm this , clarkys clutch was slipping on his 5jj so we put the brand new diaphragm spring in it from out of my blown motor and it cured it the slip .
Long winded but I hope it helps , I'd rather give you all the details so you can make your own mind up
I was using Castrol power1racing and am sure that's what was n it once I had the clutch sorted .
Gets a bit confusing as if I remember I'd gone for fully synthetic and the clutch started slipping , I'm sure it was Castrol power 1 racing . I then replaced the friction plates with EBC plates but the clutch still slipped over 8000rpm and I blamed the plates . I couldn't afford new plates so I stuck with it for a couple of years and did a bit of homework , I found after asking a few people my wife knew from the bike trade that they had used and continued to use EBC plates with no problems so I decided to bite the bullet and buy new O.E.M plates , half plate , steels and diaphragm spring , I did an oil change at the same time using again Castrol power 1 racing and remember as I screwed the oil filter on with my gorilla hands I heard a click , I built everything up and took the bike for a 20mile sling and everything was brilliant
That week I skived off work early on the Wednesday to pop over to Donington to catch up with some of the guys from the forum on a track day , I got no more than 2 miles from home and the engine all of a sudden felt right then I could hear a fast tapping and the thing seezed , which wrote the engine off .
The guy that fitted the new engine put silkolene pro 4 so in it and recommended it shortly a month or so later the wife bought me a Barnett conversion for my birthday and fitted that along with the new clutch from the blown motor .
My conclusion is that putting full synthetic in a bike that has been running semi synthetic can make the clutch slip and that most people when changing an R1 clutch treat it like changing a car clutch and just change the friction plates where as you need to at least check the steels for warping and wear especially if the bikes done a few miles as you don't know when the steels were last changed , also the diaphragm spring is over looked as I believe these go weak over time and to confirm this , clarkys clutch was slipping on his 5jj so we put the brand new diaphragm spring in it from out of my blown motor and it cured it the slip .
Long winded but I hope it helps , I'd rather give you all the details so you can make your own mind up
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Re: Hi all
Shell have always made their own base oils, and their current synthetic stuff is very good. I'd use it if we could buy it in NZ.pompousporcupine wrote:Thanks folks
Something to consider at least. jompy can you remember what oil you put in when it started to slip?
I thought it was the use of friction modifiers that caused the slip which is why i've always just put boggo 10w40 into my bikes. Cheap as you like with no fancy 'we protect for longer' bs.
This is the stuff ive ordered but if its not gonna work then i wont put it in.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shell-Advanc ... 2749.l2649
All I'll say about Castrol is I'll never put it in a car or bike again.
"You don't get slower with age, you just get more cautious." Michael Rutter
1999 4xv in blue
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Re: Hi all
Sounds like the Shell stuff will be OK. I'll give that a go and see what happens. I've changed many a bike clutch before so its not hassle to do, just expensive. The bikes done 40+k miles but without knowing how the previous owners treated it it will be impossible to known whats going to happen
Now to wait for the service parts to arrive . Probably the most love this bike has seen for a long time. On that note if anybody has the original tail light and under tray they want to sell i'l like to get rid of the LED setup that's currently on the bike.
Jompy, did you find what caused the thing to seize? Oil starvation maybe?
Now to wait for the service parts to arrive . Probably the most love this bike has seen for a long time. On that note if anybody has the original tail light and under tray they want to sell i'l like to get rid of the LED setup that's currently on the bike.
Jompy, did you find what caused the thing to seize? Oil starvation maybe?
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Re: Hi all
Millers is £14.20 for 500ml you only need about 25ml per tank so it goes a long way.pompousporcupine wrote: ↑Tue Mar 26, 2019 8:27 am That Redline stuff can be had from eurocarparts for £16 with the their online discount at the moment which isnt too bad. I'll give it a go.
Before i order that what oil would you folks recommend?
On all my other bikes i run a generic Triple QX branded 10w40 semi synth which had never let me down. Its cheap and gets changed every 1k miles.
I have a bottle of Fuchs Silkoline 10w40 sitting there doing nothing, would this be adequate? Not quite sure whether to put in semi or fully synthetic stuff
- jompy
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Re: Hi all
Yes I did mate , I ment to right it in that war and peace script I wrote last nightpompousporcupine wrote: ↑Wed Mar 27, 2019 7:59 am Sounds like the Shell stuff will be OK. I'll give that a go and see what happens. I've changed many a bike clutch before so its not hassle to do, just expensive. The bikes done 40+k miles but without knowing how the previous owners treated it it will be impossible to known whats going to happen
Now to wait for the service parts to arrive . Probably the most love this bike has seen for a long time. On that note if anybody has the original tail light and under tray they want to sell i'l like to get rid of the LED setup that's currently on the bike.
Jompy, did you find what caused the thing to seize? Oil starvation maybe?
It turned out to be a small piece of ally got wedged in the oil/water pump impeller snapping the shaft so no water of oil going round the engine , apparently it managed to warp the crank
If you can be arsed for the price of a gasket you could ship off the clutch cover and measure the plates and steels to see if they're in tolerance . . . . . . . But where's the fun in that live life dangerously , I usually do
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Re: Hi all
That sounds awful
Bet the replacement wasn't cheap either!
My other bike is a gpz900r. I'm on my third engine in that bike. First was a faulty fuel tap and faulty needle valve that let fuel fill the cylinder. Hydro lock bent the rods
Second one was oil starvation which killed top end.
Bet the replacement wasn't cheap either!
My other bike is a gpz900r. I'm on my third engine in that bike. First was a faulty fuel tap and faulty needle valve that let fuel fill the cylinder. Hydro lock bent the rods
Second one was oil starvation which killed top end.
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Re: Hi all
First bike I did over 140 on lovely bikes.pompousporcupine wrote: ↑Wed Mar 27, 2019 8:49 pm That sounds awful
Bet the replacement wasn't cheap either!
My other bike is a gpz900r. I'm on my third engine in that bike. First was a faulty fuel tap and faulty needle valve that let fuel fill the cylinder. Hydro lock bent the rods
Second one was oil starvation which killed top end.
- jompy
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Re: Hi all
mate it gutted me at the time but i got a bargain and i had a garage do the work for me , i bought a job lot of bits so got a fair few spares so i got my monies worth . Garage bill wasn't great but when you consider a lot of tuners charge £500 just to strip and access the engine i again did well .pompousporcupine wrote: ↑Wed Mar 27, 2019 8:49 pm That sounds awful
Bet the replacement wasn't cheap either!
My other bike is a gpz900r. I'm on my third engine in that bike. First was a faulty fuel tap and faulty needle valve that let fuel fill the cylinder. Hydro lock bent the rods
Second one was oil starvation which killed top end.
When Jen was working full time and i had a couple of hundred quid spare one of the guys wrote his 4xv off that had a 5jj motor in it and at the bar-b-que i jokingly said i'll give you £200 for the motor and he said give me £400 and its yours , so i snapped his hand off and have a spare engine sat in the garage too
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Re: Hi all
My dream bike since I was a kid. I'm not that old but I remember having a poster of a gpz9 and an rc30... guess which one I can actually afford lolDanf1 wrote: ↑Wed Mar 27, 2019 8:54 pmFirst bike I did over 140 on lovely bikes.pompousporcupine wrote: ↑Wed Mar 27, 2019 8:49 pm That sounds awful
Bet the replacement wasn't cheap either!
My other bike is a gpz900r. I'm on my third engine in that bike. First was a faulty fuel tap and faulty needle valve that let fuel fill the cylinder. Hydro lock bent the rods
Second one was oil starvation which killed top end.
Unfortunately the gpz is being rebuilt after a recent mishap that involved an over enthusiastic attempt at the mountain at Cadwell park
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Re: Hi all
jompy wrote: ↑Wed Mar 27, 2019 8:58 pmmate it gutted me at the time but i got a bargain and i had a garage do the work for me , i bought a job lot of bits so got a fair few spares so i got my monies worth . Garage bill wasn't great but when you consider a lot of tuners charge £500 just to strip and access the engine i again did well .pompousporcupine wrote: ↑Wed Mar 27, 2019 8:49 pm That sounds awful
Bet the replacement wasn't cheap either!
My other bike is a gpz900r. I'm on my third engine in that bike. First was a faulty fuel tap and faulty needle valve that let fuel fill the cylinder. Hydro lock bent the rods
Second one was oil starvation which killed top end.
When Jen was working full time and i had a couple of hundred quid spare one of the guys wrote his 4xv off that had a 5jj motor in it and at the bar-b-que i jokingly said i'll give you £200 for the motor and he said give me £400 and its yours , so i snapped his hand off and have a spare engine sat in the garage too
You did well even the labor alone is crippling let alone the cost of a running engine itself. One of the reasons I've done everything myself for the last few years.
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Re: Hi all
Yes I did very well but then the guys a mate and we try to help each other out on this forum if we can , at £400 I HAD to have the engine , it had 30,000 miles on it and the history was more or less unknown till Alex_h had it but I knew it was a good runnerpompousporcupine wrote: ↑Wed Mar 27, 2019 9:07 pm You did well even the labor alone is crippling let alone the cost of a running engine itself. One of the reasons I've done everything myself for the last few years.
- Steve R1
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Re: Hi all
Welcome to the forum mate and congratulations on your R1. Sadly I’ve never owned a 4xv but the guys in here rave about them, I’ve clearly missed something.
Welcome
Stephen
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Welcome
Stephen
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Re: Hi all
Cheers Stephen
also, thanks for the recommendation on the Clymer. Mine arrived today and i can see why people think its better than the Haynes manual.
A week into my 4xv ownership and ive replaced the plugs, removed 10mm from the coil leads, replaced the air filter, the oil and filter, the rear disc and rebuild the caliper and am now doing the chain, sprockets and checking that the exup thingymabob is working as it should
and to top that off i think it developed a fork seal leak on the way home from picking it up
also, thanks for the recommendation on the Clymer. Mine arrived today and i can see why people think its better than the Haynes manual.
A week into my 4xv ownership and ive replaced the plugs, removed 10mm from the coil leads, replaced the air filter, the oil and filter, the rear disc and rebuild the caliper and am now doing the chain, sprockets and checking that the exup thingymabob is working as it should
and to top that off i think it developed a fork seal leak on the way home from picking it up