www.YamahaR.co.uk

New to the forum, and to R1's. Had a very tricked RSV 1000 track bike before this. Like chalk and cheese! Anyway, planning on keeping this pretty much standard, unlike my last bike.

I have one question - what do people run in terms of front end height on their 1998 R1's? Handbook says fork caps flush with the yoke, first few hundred miles I did were with 3mm of fork showing above the yokes, but the steering still felt very slow, very reluctant to tip into bends. Currently running a 200/55 rear by the way.

Hi Marko nice looking bike welcome to the forum ,


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As you probably know tyres will effect tipping in as well , welcome in bud you'll love the 4xv , when I get chance I'll post up a welcome to the 4xv/5jj post for you

Welcome in marko, nice looking bike


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Thanks for the reply guys. Yeah, rear profile makes a big difference, I would have thought that a larger profile than standard (which the 200/55 is) would have quickened turn in, but still felt slow, compared to my last bike anyway. I have set the forks with 7mm showing above the top yoke now, yet to test this out though!

Hi Marko, welcome.
Maybe try jacking up the back instead of dropping the front and see how it feels.
I'm sure a few here will have some definite answers for you.

Maybe also check your preload and make sure it's not too much up front or too little at the rear.

marko84 wrote:Thanks for the reply guys. Yeah, rear profile makes a big difference, I would have thought that a larger profile than standard (which the 200/55 is) would have quickened turn in, but still felt slow, compared to my last bike anyway. I have set the forks with 7mm showing above the top yoke now, yet to test this out though!

might be the front tyre i think the bridgstone s20 fronts were a bit slow tipping in when they first came out , i think it's normal to drop the yokes 5mm after that it gets twitchy but people have gone lower

Those 4xv's are a lovely bike , they share a lot of parts with the 5jj like frame, wheels & engines are similar , things that are different are ECU , bodywork i.e. tank , fairing , seat unit & headlight also the radiator & wiring looms are different .
Check the main 20pin white plug on the wiring loom that sits behind the left hand fairing to make sure its in good order & been greased as these can cause problems , the HT leads can break up when old where the plug cap screws on & cause misfire all you need to do is cut 5-10 mm off the end & screw the cap back on , also DON'T tighten the sump bolt up to 42nm its a lot less more like 15-20nm .
get the service manuals and parts micro fiches for both the 4xv & 5jj downloaded , use the online PDF link & down load the parts manuals from there .
http://www.partzilla.com can be helpful for online parts micro fiches for getting part numbers & checking prices in the states you can then enter the partnumber into O.E.M part search on places like http://www.wemoto.com
enjoy

Thanks Jompy. As with any bike it's personal preference I guess, just need to ride it and tweak things until it's feeling right. Preload is currently 2 rings showing on the front, and number 6 on the rear. When I got it, the settings were all over the place, front preload all the way out, rear all the way in, and all daming settings fully in at the back. Must have been unridable! I spent 10 says stripping her down and servicing everything before riding, including new plugs, the leads looked fine. Sump plug went back on at 42 no problem, but I'll lower it for next time. Always do my own work wherever possible, so I have the full workshop manual. She runs spot on, been a well cared for bike I think.

Myself & 2002r1jon and a few others have cracked sumps mate , you don't have to but I'd recommend a new crush washer everytime & halfing the torque

Welcome to the forum Mark, that's a nice 4xv you have there, she certainly looks pampered.

Jompy, would you suggest undoing the sump plug half a turn and re torquing at 20nm? Or will she be OK sitting at 42nm until the next oil change?

marko84 wrote: planning on keeping this pretty much standard, unlike my last bike.

I remember say that when i got my 4C8, 6 months later and £2k lighter i had a different machine

Welcome to the forum pal

marko84 wrote:Jompy, would you suggest undoing the sump plug half a turn and re torquing at 20nm? Or will she be OK sitting at 42nm until the next oil change?

Personally I'd say leave it as it is for now as the crush washer will have been squashed more now , I'm sure if I'm wrong some one will shout up

Too late, already did it, I can't leave these things alone once I know they aint right! Retorqued at 25nm, I have a paint pen mark on the bolt so I'll check it after next few rides to make sure she's all good.

Bub, this one really is staying standard! Well apart from the exhaust, and I've put a GP shift rod on her too.

No braided lines then ? or a damper

Maybe a damper, I'll see how she is once I am a bit more used to her and giving the beans more. But nah nothing else, because in all honesty I don't know how long I'm keeping her, already thinking about another track bike for next summer. She'll hold her value better and I'll lose less if I leave her as she is!

Levers ? Paddock stand bobbins ?

Nope! And yes, I have Harris bobbins on. Bike is currently standard apart from the slip on, bobbins, crash bungs and shift rod. Even the oil and air filer are genuine Yamaha. I also removed the aftermarket disc bolts and replaced with genuine items. I'll possibly fit a damper, but nothing else. And of course I have all the standard bits for when the time comes to sell!

Well, the time to sell came sooner than I thought... The bike is awesome, but I can't get used to road riding, after being on the track for several years. It's just not for me. I need a few more posts before I can do anything in the for sale section!

That's a shame , glws


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Sorry to hear that bud but if your not feeling it !
good look with the track

I'm sorry to hear that also Marko, I would have thought a bike as nice as that would sell quickly.

GLWS and enjoy your track riding

Oh and don't be a stranger, you are one of us now

GLWS pal, shouldn't be difficult selling that, it looks a nice clean

Thanks guys... It really is a belter of a bike, I just don't have the balls (or maybe I have too much sense!) to do what I do on the track, on the road, as a result it's a bit unsatisfying. She's on ebay now, if I get enough posts on here I'll put her on the for sale section too.

Bike looks mint, should sell quick.