www.YamahaR.co.uk

Good morning,

New here! just purchased a Yamaha R6 5EB 2000 with only 7,000 miles!

anything I should know?

thanks

Josh

Very nice.
Because of the low mileage:

I would be removing the tank and checking for rust. Also fuel filter replace or check and i would remove the carbs to check for sh!t in the bowels. You will be surprised!

Other than that go though it with a fine tooth comb. Chassis greasing all bearings. Check wiring harness for corrosion.

Nice little project.


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Hi Polar,

Check the tank for rust or underneath the tank for rust? is there anywhere common I should be checking on the wiring harness?

thanks!

Josh

Jsmitt5 wrote:Hi Polar,

Check the tank for rust or underneath the tank for rust? is there anywhere common I should be checking on the wiring harness?

thanks!

Josh

Hi Josh

Inside the tank is the norm as condensation over the years lies in the bottom of the tank as the fuel is lighter.

The wiring harness. The problems are very much with the block connectors (multi plugs) just disconnect them and give them a good spray of contact cleaner
I prefer wurth contact cleaner as it highly acidic and is suspended in dielectric grease.

There is nothing special to the R6. The advice is on any low mileage older bike.

Check under the fuel cap the tanks can rust on the outside there.

Other than that its normal tlc.

She looks like a great bike.



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I suspect that the suspension linkages and swing arm have never been greased. The old grease will be like water.

Obviously you could know how old the brake pads are as they could be original and like wood now.

Don't forget fork oil it will smell like a dinosaurs arse by now[emoji23]



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The rear shock will be past its best but just try first. If you want to keep original you can get it serviced. Fresh oil and gas will make a big difference and should be fine for the road.

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Hi Polar,

do you work on bikes? if so where are you based?

Thanks for all your advise so far I will check it all out!

Thanks

Josh

Jsmitt5 wrote:Hi Polar,

do you work on bikes? if so where are you based?

Thanks for all your advise so far I will check it all out!

Thanks

Josh

Im actually motor vehicle engineer. Vehicle procurement and design. I started off life on the tools and obviously carried on with my own stuff as hobby and to keep my hand in.

I very rarely work on other people's stuff now due to health but information is free. Im not one of those people who are in the trade and wont pass on information. I dont like that as helping people with info dosent hurt me. Unless im whacked out and in bed.

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Thanks for the advise!!

Welcome in Josh , nice six

Looks good Josh, and welcome to the forum.

I think Polar has covered most of it. It would probably be best to use a semi-synthetic oil as changing to a full synthetic could start the clutch slipping.

If it still has the original brake hoses, braided hoses will improve the brake feel.

Hi Moise
I have just purchased genuine yamalube fully synthetic as it’s what the dealer recommended? Braided lines have also been done. Thanks

Josh

The older R1's can develop clutch slip after changing to full synthetic. I don't know if the early R6 has the same problem, but the friction plates are probably made of the same material.

You may well be OK given the low mileage. Have you ridden the bike yet?

Moise wrote:The older R1's can develop clutch slip after changing to full synthetic. I don't know if the early R6 has the same problem, but the friction plates are probably made of the same material.

You may well be OK given the low mileage. Have you ridden the bike yet?

My 2004 R6 development clutch slip with synthetic oil that had 3k miles on it. It was my track bike but it hadent had much use before I bought it.

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