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Hello dudes.

I'm gleaning info from the forum and thought I'd better say hello.

I spoke to Mike on the email to get the gen on Flashtuning and he suggested I join up here and have a word with you boys.

Some of the bikes I've had over the years are SS50, RD50, 125lc, RGV, 3XV, EXUP thou, 929 and a bunch of other crap in between but I'm now in the market for a 4C8 and it'll be my first R1.

Anyone got any glaringly obvious things to look out for when buying the 16v R1?

Any and all knowledge appreciated..

Cheers

Hi radial,

Welcome to the forum fella, mike is right peeps love giving advice on here about R1s. Loads with the 4c8's, some members have recently purchased them, Luke and pingping spring to mind. Luke has taken his to cadwell today so he may be on later tonight and should be able to give you some advice, as should pingping ( Thomas).

The 4c8 is a good choice of R1, you will want a clean and tidy example low miles, peeps will be able to tell you the sort of price you should be looking at, but sorry I can't. Oh and I know PJC will say I have stated the bloody obvious..... But just continuing on bloody obvious statements..... Don't buy a 4c8 from PJC....... Aka Pete........ When he is not on the road he is in a ditch....... And he knows all the ditches in his neck of the woods very well indeed

As you have probably guessed, loads of banter on here, all good humoured and we do help peeps out.

My advice would be to look around, try a few bikes, and just don't buy the first one you see...... Get it HPI'd check service history, mots mileage add up and tax, a chap on here was looking at a bike a few months back and the mots tax and service history were all out of kilter...... That set alarm bells ringing.

If the fairings are mint but the frame, pegs, wheels show signs of wear, there is a chance the bike has been wearing track fairings or it's been owned by pod or Jompy, who remove their fairings, to be fair to pod he replaces them with carbon, and quite a few on here do.... And his bike looks good, Jompy on the other hand is one sack short of a full load.. .... He likes his R1 to be naked...... He even dreams about it.

Sorry in rabbiting on again. Welcome to the forum, this really is the best forum in the world.... FULL STOP

And when you get your 4c8..... You will have one hell of a bike. Enjoy your bike hunting..... If you see one, pop details on here, someone may know it..... It's always worth a try.


Good luck

Probably the biggest thing that can be a pain in the arse is the exup system.
Check that it is moving to start with with no frayed or snapped cables.
If the cables are snapped , hope that the valve isnt seized.
If the valve is seized then the fun begins trying to get the bolts out without them snapping which is almost impossible if it has never been touched.

Hello mate, Steve is right, I've just recently bought my first R1.

Price wise, I think you should look to pay between £4500 and & £5500 for a private sale. There are plenty of bikes asking for more but they're not selling. The price towards the top end should include a set of end cans and hopefully a decat pipe as they're the two expensive but common mods. Standard cans can be picked up very cheaply on eBay if the bike doesn't come with them and you want them for a better price at resale time.

There's not a lot that gets mentioned problem wise, don't be put off by higher mileage bikes but do try and factor it in to the cost.

A standard cat will cook your arse and run the bike hotter for longer. A decat pipe solves all issues.


Most bikes are dropped on their right hand side, check pillion pegs for scrapes that may be easily overlooked.

A flash tune will sort the bike, as will a suspension set up by someone that knows what they're doing. £150 & £40 that should definitely be spent.

To put the prices in perspective, 2 months ago I paid £4500 for a cat D 2500 miles on clock and completely standard. (minimal damage but repaired American import) and had a sale fall through on a £5500 red and white 08 plate with 10k on the clocks.

Currently bikes I overlooked at the start are still on eBay now and dropped below £5k.


Good luck!

If Duktor is still wanting to sell his, it's definitely worth considering.

The 4c8's ment to be a cracking bike , take one out for a test ride first . De-cat , cans ( can de-baffle standard cans ) & flash tune are deffo something to consider , Mike does a good flash-tune for around £150 by post or take it to a dyno & have it flashed for £300+

Personally I would go for the 20 v version

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Hi and welcome, i've got a 4C8 too, cheers for the mention Steve "NOT" ya bastid oh and lmfao about the Pete comments

If you take one out for a test ride make sure its had a flash or a pc3 fitted with a custom map, cos without those things done they are absolute toilet IMO well until you get upto about 10k revs then its a monster

Cheers lads. All decent advice.

Good to know there's no obvious weak points.

I'll keep you informed as to how I get on.

Hi mate and welcome,only weak point i know of is the oil pick up is at the front of the 16v engine,so if any of the previous owners are wheelie whores then it can starve the crank of oil..

As Podster said 20v all day long..

Hiya Radial welcome in,as already said a flashtune/decat and set of cans would probly be your best start off mods,i have those mods done to my 4c8 plus a few extra and it does make a massive difference,the engine can sound a bit tappy but dont let that put you off,its just the usual i think ie condition mileage etc or if you wanna buy a nice clean 07 plate in red/white then im all ears

Damo666 wrote:Hiya Radial welcome in,as already said a flashtune/decat and set of cans would probly be your best start off mods,i have those mods done to my 4c8 plus a few extra and it does make a massive difference,the engine can sound a bit tappy but dont let that put you off,its just the usual i think ie condition mileage etc or if you wanna buy a nice clean 07 plate in red/white then im all ears

Its true and dammos best mate drives a little red and yellow car and goes by the name of Noddy


Anyway as for the 4c8 just be sure and run it up to temp and check the exup, look for signs of track day abuse and take a good look in all the nooks and crannies as that will show how well it has been look after or not.

hash29 wrote:

Damo666 wrote:Hiya Radial welcome in,as already said a flashtune/decat and set of cans would probly be your best start off mods,i have those mods done to my 4c8 plus a few extra and it does make a massive difference,the engine can sound a bit tappy but dont let that put you off,its just the usual i think ie condition mileage etc or if you wanna buy a nice clean 07 plate in red/white then im all ears

Its true and dammos best mate drives a little red and yellow car and goes by the name of Noddy


Anyway as for the 4c8 just be sure and run it up to temp and check the exup, look for signs of track day abuse and take a good look in all the nooks and crannies as that will show how well it has been look after or not.

I thought that was Bubs car ... Actually I'm being daft... It's too big earear

I was the one that sold that car to noddy lol

Bub wrote:I was the one that sold that car to noddy lol

Pmsl

Welcome in Radial

Welcome in bud

Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk

Cheers for the welcome boys.

Siamblue wrote:if any of the previous owners are wheelie whores then it can starve the crank of oil..

Shee-it. I don't mind the odd wheelie myself

Welcome in m8, firstly the 4c8's crash well I have a bit of experience of that one, look in crash test dummies.

Don't be put off with high mileage, I have 28k, two crashes and only ever change the oil once a year, she gets ridden hard and after a recent compression test she is perfect and still in the running in stage

Standard bikes are a bit gutless and you mat be disappointed, I sure as hell was. so decat, cans PC3/5 or like me flashtune is a must, some do a -1 on the front gearing however I dont see the point as it lifts in the first 3 anymore would make it a tad hard to keep down.

This is by far the best engine Yamaha have built, they dropped the 20v engine as technology has moved along allowing a high revving 16v mota with reliability. It has the most BHP and torque (I believe) of any R1. Flyby wire can be a pain so make sure you read up on those issues

After market parts are expensive and rarely come to market so a good specked bike is a must IMO.

Look at swingarm if the bike has been crashed there will be a little mark where the rear set has snapped.

Standard steering damper works but a change of oil to a slightly thicker grade will help or change for something better.

Any thing more just ask

Oh do look out for imports there are a load out there

Cheers PJC. Didn't think to look at the swingarm..

I'm used to a 929 blade with a can & pc3 & the last diesel before that was a 20v EXUP, so I guessed the power delivery will be different, but that's half the reason I want a newer 16v. I used to ride strokers and I'm hoping the power curve will be a bit more "top-endy"

I did wonder about the damper. I had an ohlins on the blade and was hoping the stock yam one would be good enough, but all it'll take is one decent nip-up of the bunghole and I'll be changing it

Anything to look out for on the grey imports? I fancy a black 4c8, and I see 'em in all varieties.. Matt mid panels, gloss mid panels, different decals, different colour forks, different springs???

Either way, I fooked my foot up at the wknd in a Beer/football/arcade machine related incident at the coast, so won't be riding for a week or so.

Blade sold though, bloke is picking it up Sunday morning.

I'll be heading off to crash test dummies now to have a gander.

Impressive.......Most impressive.

Looks like you were a lucky bugger.

Mines an import, it had enormous indicators and less power. It was imported from new though so doesn't show as an import on the logbook or vehicle history. The American ones also had reflectors on the front forks. Mine have a mark where they were stuck on.


A flash tune needs to know if the bike is British or American as the wiring is different. I don't have a flasher button or an immobiliser so no red key.