Hi all

[pompousporcupine]

Hi folks.

Just picked up a 99 R1 in blue (obviously the best colour)
Enjoying it so far. Have done about 80 miles and scared myself a few times. Coming from classic Kawasakis it's a bit of a change

Other than a general service, is there anything I should be checking over on these bikes?

Cheers
Dan

[jompy]

Welcome in Dan
I love the early R1's . . . . . .. i love R1's
Theres loads of stuff you need to know like the sump bolt is not 42nm its more like 20nm max , all the electrical connecters are crap an will loose you power and they need cleaning and also electrically the big white 20 pin connector behind the left side fairing panel is the route of all evil !
There really is a ton of stuff and it's all listed in the 4xv and 5jj sections of the forum . . . . . if you can find it , your going to have hours of reading
Just remember the only really stupid question is the question unasked although there are plenty of stupid questions that have been asked
Theres a lot of knowledge on this forum so please do tap in to it , we will try to help

[R1Clarky]

welcome in mate , great choice of bike and i agree with you about the colour [emoji16] remember to take your time getting used to the new bike and enjoy the forum

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

[Horus-222_R1]

Welcome in Dan and congrats on the R.
Enjoy the forum.

[LOCKE]

Welcome in mate.

[newsh]

Welcome!
Good choice of bike [emoji41]
Make sure the EXUP is working and the cables adjusted correctly [emoji106]

[Moise]

Welcome Dan. Had a decent head shake yet? - that gets your attention.

I had a ZZR1200 when I bought my 4xv - very different bikes. Enjoy, and ask away.

[polar]

Hi and welcome Dan, yep the 4xv/5jj are great bikes and for 20 years old they still shift.

I got mine last year after wanting one for 20 years! Mine is standard apart from braided brake lines. I owned road 2004 R1 and a 2006 GSXR750 and a 2004 R6 race bike so i knew what i was letting myself in for but i was still surprised with the bottom end torque and the top end rush. The spread of power is amazing, you can see Yamaha got it right by miles 20 years ago.

The wiring is a joke and not up to the job 20 years ago so some are in a right mess now, check to front sprocket, swinging arm play, maybe take the float bowls off and check for sh1t, regrease everything, 20 year old fork oil? run some fuel system cleaner though it. Dont use yamahas torque settings especially on the sump plug. Other than that give it a good going over - if you do a search or go through the 4xv stuff there is loads of info on here and they are a great bunch of lads.

[pompousporcupine]

Thanks for the responses all.

I went over the bike and have just ordered a new chain and sprocket kit and a rebuild kit with new disc for the rear brake as the disc had micro cracks that i didn't notice when i bought it. I used to own a Thundercat which also had cracks on the rear disc. It passed an MOT like this

What fuel treatment do you guys recommend? The bike hunts a teeny bit at idle which i suspect is probably the pilot circuit but i'd rather try a fuel treatment and a good service before i have to start taking carbs apart.

The bike unfortunately lived outside under previous ownership so there are a few things that need replacing to neaten it up a bit. That said, it still a thing of beauty

[jompy]

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engin ... omax-500ml

[polar]

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engin ... omax-500ml

[polar]

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engin ... omax-500ml

Posted same time

[pompousporcupine]

i'll have a look at the local halfrauds and see if they have it on shelf. Need to pick up a haynes manual anyway
Would a faulty exup system cause errors or bad running at idle?

[pompousporcupine]

i'll have a look at the local halfrauds and see if they have it on shelf. Need to pick up a haynes manual anyway
Would a faulty exup system cause errors or bad running at idle?

[jompy]

Faulty exup would be either bogging down up to 3000 rpm or loss of top end

[jompy]

By the sounds of it the bike needs a real good going over , you need to check through the wiring especially the big white 20 pin connector that joins the main loom to the small loom , it sits behind the left hand side fairing panel .
The ends of the HT leads can need a look at too , where the HT lead screws into the plug cap the wires can get brittle and snap or get corroded , I cut 5 to 10mm off the ends of mine and screwed them back on again .
Have yourself a damn good read through the 4xv and 5jj sections there's loads of advice on there

[Rednine]

Hi Dan and welcome. I also run a '99 4XV R1 in the best colour.Before you buy a Haynes manual check out the Clymer manual although American the pictures and graphics leave the Haynes at the starting gate, additionally it is far more accurate and comprehensive. To be fair though it is more expensive at around 30 quid but sooo worth it. By the way, whereabouts are you from?

[pompousporcupine]

I found one for £20 which is what i was going to pay for a haynes, so have ordered it along with some plugs as i think the ones fitted may be very old. Unfortunately there wasn't much history with it to show what has been done over the years but it seems to pull very well after 3-4k rpm. It needs a good service which it will get this week when stuff arrives

jompy, what specifically about the 20 pin connector? Am i just looking for signs of corrosion?

Are the coil leads replaceable at the coil end? IE can i unscrew the cap at both ends and replace the lead?
Have been browsing the 4xv section already

Cheers all, been a big help so far

Am based in Swindon btw

[Moise]

Hi Dan and welcome. I also run a '99 4XV R1 in the best colour.Before you buy a Haynes manual check out the Clymer manual although American the pictures and graphics leave the Haynes at the starting gate, additionally it is far more accurate and comprehensive. To be fair though it is more expensive at around 30 quid but sooo worth it. By the way, whereabouts are you from?

I have the Clymer manual too. Worth it just for the colour wiring diagram on the CD!

I use it with the factory manual as it includes photos and more detailed instructions.

This would be my recommendation for a fuel system cleaner. Probably not in your local Halfords though!

[Rednine]

You're right about Halfords but on ebay about £18 for 443mls. Looks and reads to be every bit as good as Millers.

[jompy]

I found one for £20 which is what i was going to pay for a haynes, so have ordered it along with some plugs as i think the ones fitted may be very old. Unfortunately there wasn't much history with it to show what has been done over the years but it seems to pull very well after 3-4k rpm. It needs a good service which it will get this week when stuff arrives

jompy, what specifically about the 20 pin connector? Am i just looking for signs of corrosion?

Are the coil leads replaceable at the coil end? IE can i unscrew the cap at both ends and replace the lead?
Have been browsing the 4xv section already

Cheers all, been a big help so far

Am based in Swindon btw

yes mate corrosion in the plug , needs pulling apart and cleaning . I replaced mine with a second hand one off a mazda mx5

No the leads are fixed to the coils and sealed unfortunately , you used to be able to buy a jointing thingmajig to joint HT leads

[Rednine]

A really good deoxidising aerosol and protective agent going forward is Deoxit D5. Again it is American I believe, therefore expensive for the size but certainly sorted out my dreaded white plug. I have not experienced any problems since.

[Horus-222_R1]

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engin ... omax-500ml

Posted same time

Jesus. This stuff’s gone viral. I'm going to put some more in. .

[Danf1]

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engin ... omax-500ml

Posted same time

Jesus. This stuff’s gone viral. I'm going to put some more in. .

Not that im getting paranoid about petrol degradation but each time I fill the jerrycan I’m dropping millers in and dating the bloody can with a sharpie!! Bloody Polar and his insider knowledge

[pompousporcupine]

That Redline stuff can be had from eurocarparts for £16 with the their online discount at the moment which isnt too bad. I'll give it a go.
Before i order that what oil would you folks recommend?

On all my other bikes i run a generic Triple QX branded 10w40 semi synth which had never let me down. Its cheap and gets changed every 1k miles.
I have a bottle of Fuchs Silkoline 10w40 sitting there doing nothing, would this be adequate? Not quite sure whether to put in semi or fully synthetic stuff